Before yarn can take on the beautiful, earthy hues from natural dyes, it needs a little prep work. Think of it like washing and priming a canvas before painting—scouring and mordanting are the foundation that helps colors last, stay bright, and bind beautifully to the fibers.
If you’ve ever wondered why some natural dyes fade quickly, it usually comes down to skipping these steps. Let’s walk through them together. 🌿✨
Step 1: Scouring – Giving Your Yarn a Fresh Start
What it is: Scouring is the process of cleaning yarn to remove oils, dirt, and anything that might prevent dye from absorbing evenly. Even brand-new yarns have residues from spinning or storage.
What you’ll need:
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A large pot (dedicated to dyeing only—don’t use your cooking pots!)
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Mild, pH-neutral soap (like Orvus paste or a gentle dish soap)
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Water
- Wool yarn
How to scour yarn:
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Fill your pot with enough warm water to cover the yarn and add a few drops of soap.
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Place your skeins gently in the water, making sure they’re fully submerged.
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Heat the pot slowly until the water is hot (not boiling). Let it simmer gently for about 30–45 minutes.
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Remove the yarn and rinse in warm water until the soap is gone.
💡 Tip: Tie your skeins loosely in 3–4 places with cotton thread before scouring, to keep them from tangling.
Step 2: Mordanting – Helping Color Stick
What it is: Mordanting prepares the yarn fibers so the dye can chemically bond with them. Without it, many colors will wash out or fade too quickly.
Common mordants for protein fibers (wool, alpaca, silk):
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Alum (potassium aluminum sulfate) – the most beginner-friendly and safe.
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Cream of tartar – often used with alum to soften wool and brighten colors.
How to mordant yarn with alum:
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Dissolve alum (about 10–15% of the yarn’s weight) in hot water.
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If using cream of tartar (about 5% of the yarn’s weight), dissolve separately and add to the pot.
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Fill the pot with enough water to cover the yarn and stir in the mordant solution.
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Add the pre-wet yarn to the pot. Heat gently for 1 hour—don’t boil.
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Let the yarn cool in the mordant bath for best absorption.
- Either move on to Step 3, or let the yarn dry and put it away until ready to use.
✨ If drying the yarn for a later date, it's best if used within a month as the alum can deteriorate the wool.
Step 3: Ready for the Dye Pot!
Now your yarn is clean and mordanted, it’s ready to soak up the natural dyes. Whether you’re working with madder for warm reds, or marigolds for golden yellows, your prep work ensures the colors will bond beautifully and last through many seasons of wear.
Final Thoughts
Natural dyeing is a slow, intentional process—and that’s what makes it so magical. Taking the time to prepare your fibers through scouring and mordanting is part of the ritual, a way of showing respect for both the materials and the craft.
✨ Next up: we’ll dive into some of the most beginner-friendly natural dyes you can try at home.
